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April 22, 2003
Moussaka
I have only ever had moussaka four times. The first
time it seemed an exotic experience while I was at summer camp in
Switzerland (International
Summer Camp Montana). Some of the girls from Greece spent a
large part of one day cooking moussaka. We were to feast on it during
a special activity night. I was 16 years old and I had absolutely
no idea what moussaka was. In my home, pizza was considered an ethnic
dinner. We just did not get exposed to different kinds of food.
The evening progressed, I ate my first moussaka and I enjoyed it!
The second time was on a family trip. I was on the
verge of being 18, and all six of us Havilands were on a small cruise
ship (and I mean small) in Greece. We arrived in Athens and dealt
with the busy, dirty city that we needed to board from. We did have
a wonderful hike to the Parthenon, but otherwise I didn't really
enjoy my visit there. But then we boarded the cruise ship and spent
the next few days touring the most beautiful islands I had ever
seen. We would wake up at one island, enjoy a morning there, board
the ship, eat lunch and cruise to the next island, and enjoy the
afternoon or evening there. Crete, and Mykonos, the beach of Lindos,
the names were different from anything I knew. The white washed
buildings with soft edges, the dry warmth and lack of greenery,
all was tantalizing. The food was different as well. I again enjoyed
moussaka, this time in it's homeland and glory. I have vague memories
of chasing it all down with some ouzo.
Many years later I needed some comfort food to indulge
my memories and senses. I was 33 and had just had surgery to remove
the cancer that had grown in my colon. I was a mom of a one year
old but was feeling so unsure of what was going on with my future.
During the recovery from my surgery, many people had brought food
and were very generous in many ways. My older brother Sandy and
his wife Kate had given me a gift certificate to the Ann Howard
Cookery down the road. (I had worked there when I was in high school).
I talked to the woman at the cookery about what kinds of things
they could make for us, and on the list was moussaka! The thought
of it brought back such good memories. I ordered it right away,
and was delighted to have it again. It tasted so wonderful. I waited
a week or so, then ordered it a second time. Again, delicious!
Being spring, I have wanted to cook some lamb, and
started thinking about moussaka. I hunted down recipes on the internet
and found a mere handful. I will remain on the hunt until I find
something that is right. I tried a variation on a few of the recipes
I found- kind of combining some of them. It was not quite what I
remembered. So I am still working on it. The recipe that I made
is below, but know that this is not quite right, even though it
is legitimate moussaka.
I don't remember what the first two moussakas tasted
like, but were good enough to make me want it again at the next
opportunity .I do know that the recipe that Ann Howard's used was
fantastic. The cookery is no longer in business, but I still want
to get the recipe that they used. If anyone can get me any information
about it - PLEASE let me know!!!
Moussaka
This is best made a day ahead and reheated. Takes about an
hour and a half of active work time. Make sure you read through
the recipe entirely before taking it on.
Bechamel:
5 Tbsp butter
1/2 cup flour
2 1/2 cups hot milk
2 eggs
Eggplant:
2 regular sized eggplants
kosher salt
Meat filling:
olive oil
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb
2 small onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 Tbsp oregano
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 20 ounce can chopped tomatoes, drained
1 Tbsp tomato paste
Slice the eggplant into 1/4 inch thick rounds. Salt
it heavily with kosher salt and let it sit in a colander for at
least 30 minutes.
Make the bechamel:
Melt the butter in a heavy, medium sized pot. Add the flour and
stir constantly for 2 minutes. Slowly add the hot milk, a little
at a time, whisking until smooth after each addition. Mix the eggs
in a large bowl. Pour a little of the hot sauce into the eggs to
temper them, then slowly and whisking, add the warmed eggs into
the sauce. Remove fromt he heat and continue to whisk for several
minutes to allow it to begin cooling and not let the eggs curdle!
Meat Sauce:
Pour some olive oil in a large heavy pan (I use a LeCreuset "buffet"
pan). Over medium heat, brown the ground lamb- 6 minutes or so.
Add the onions and garlic and cook for 2 minutes.
add the spices and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the wine, tomatoes
and tomato paste, turn the heat down and let it simmer for about
an hour.
Meanwhile: Rinse the eggplant slices off, and lay
them on a foil lined baking sheet. Brush them with olive oil and
broil them for about 5 minutes- until they start to brown.
Assemble:
Spray a large casserole or baking dish with cooking spray. Make
a single layer with half of the eggplant, spoon the meat sauce on
top of the eggplant and spread evenly. Top it with the rest of the
eggplant.
Slowly pour the bechamel sauce over all, making sure that all of
the eggplant has sauce on it.
Cook at 375 for about an hour. Allow to stand for half an hour.
Makes about 8 servings.
Any feedback from
anyone is welcome about this page. I am not quite sure where
I'm going with this column, so any input is helpful.
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